SNES Pro Action Replay MK3 regional converter

Post by **badinsults** » Thu May 28, 2009 10:58 pm

I finally got around to getting the switch on my Pro Action Replay MK3 fixed, and I want to get it to play PAL games on my NTSC system. From what I understand, you are supposed to stick an NTSC cart on the back connector and the PAR uses the CIC chip on it to trick the SNES to think the PAL game is NTSC. However, when I try this, I just get a blank screen (the PAR menu doesn't even boot up). Playing the PAL game without the NTSC game on the back also results in the PAR menu not loading. Playing an NTSC game works fine. Any idea what the problem might be?

Post by **grinvader** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:27 am

If it's anything like the PAR2, set the 3-position switch to the down position before switching on.

Also, consider unscrewing the (PAR's) plastic covers, as they often fuck with the backside connector tabs and prevent correct behaviour.

And man, these connectors are horribly sensitive to the smallest cart wiggle. Set the system so that *nothing* ever budges. Switching the power on (*clunk*) is often enough to make the whole mess go haywire.
Also remember that the sram of both the back and top carts are likely to go gazook for each wiggle.

Watching me booting up ToP makes NES nerds blowing on carts for 10 minutes look fast.

Post by **badinsults** » Fri May 29, 2009 3:05 am

Well, that is likely my problem, I have the wrong switch on this thing. The switch that is on this only has an up and down mode. The thing was a hack job when I got it (one of the connectors was broken), so in all likelyhood, the original switch was busted, and they put on an incorrect replacement.

Can someone with a PAR get me the part number for the switch, and I will order a new one.

Post by **grinvader** » Fri May 29, 2009 9:06 pm

This switch seems to fit both functionality and (maybe) NTSC voltage/amperage going through (for reference, it's 1.5A 250V here - so, pretty safe on the wattage side).

Post by **badinsults** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:40 am

I received the proper switch, and still no good. When a PAL game is on the PAR, no matter which position the switch is in, the game will not boot. The PAR doesn't even start up, the red lights on the front do not turn on. I tried it on two different SNES units with no luck.

Edit:

PHoNyMiKe · Post by **PHoNyMiKe** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:44 am

quite being a pussy and cut pin 4 on the lockout chip, it can only increase the value of the system from $1 to maybe $2. I've never had one problem with any game especially mario rpg.

p.s. booting to terranigma with a game doctor only takes a few minutes to load from floppy disk, plus it can be patched and run at 60fps without a 50/60hz switch, but anybody who's anybody has a 50/60hz switch right?

p.p.s. the lockout chip keeps the snes in a constant reset state, so that's why your little LED's show nothing.

Post by **badinsults** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:54 am

PHoNyMiKe wrote:quite being a pussy and cut pin 4 on the lockout chip, it can only increase the value of the system from $1 to maybe $2. I've never had one problem with any game especially mario rpg.

p.s. booting to terranigma with a game doctor only takes a few minutes to load from floppy disk, plus it can be patched and run at 60fps without a 50/60hz switch, but anybody who's anybody has a 50/60hz switch right?

p.p.s. the lockout chip keeps the snes in a constant reset state, so that's why your little LED's show nothing.

Ok, that explains the problem.

Plus I plan on modding one of my snes consoles. I have everything I need to do it, but I figured I would try to fix my PAR first.

Plus I do have a flash cart and can play Terranigma with the NTSC hack. Simple and easy and no floppy disks.

byuu · Post by **byuu** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 3:36 am

I recommend a sewing needle for breaking CIC pin 4. Just slide it under and it'll pop up after two or three tries. Bend it till it snaps off. Voila, no need for any desoldering nonsense.

Now if only the RGB / SPDIF mods were that easy :(

whicker · Post by **whicker** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 8:51 pm

ugh, and what if you want to play SA-1 games? what advantage is there in completely breaking off the pin?

kode54 · Post by **kode54** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:00 pm

whicker wrote:ugh, and what if you want to play SA-1 games? what advantage is there in completely breaking off the pin?

If this is only cutting the signal the CIC uses to reset the system when there's no matching CIC in the cartridge, then it shouldn't affect SA-1 games. At least, I don't think there should be a problem that way. Hmm...

Post by **badinsults** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:03 am

SA-1 games did not have an on board CIC, so without a functioning one on the SNES, I guess it wouldn't work.

kode54 · Post by **kode54** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:35 am

badinsults wrote:SA-1 games did not have an on board CIC, so without a functioning one on the SNES, I guess it wouldn't work.

Does the system CIC not function if it can't reset the system?